Fantastic, got everything I wanted here. Great scenery, loads of horse riding and not a tourist in sight!! Although the horse riding nearly came to a disastrous end.

Getting across the border from China was a complete nightmare. Told to jump from one car to another, fights nearly breaking out in the passport hall. I had it all. But after travelling about 1 mile in 2 hours I finally made it across. However this was only to find that the train I needed to the main city, Ulaanbaatar (UB) in Mongolia, was all booked up. Just great!!

The ladies behind the desk spoke no English, there were no other tourists and they seemed rude to the extreme. As I was asking one woman a question she gave me a sullen look, turned her head and fiddled with her nails ignoring me totally - and that was at the information desk. Luckily for me there was one Mongolian who spoke English. He stepped in and finally got me a ticket. This guy, Jaaga, is really cool. He was on the train too, and even got his Mum to pick us up from the Train station and take me to their flat to sort things out. Lucky, lucky, lucky.

From there everything was much easier. Although UB looks derelict compared to other cities, say, in China, but at least their sanitary habits seem to be one up on their Southern neighbours. I managed to hook up with two girls, one English and one Canadian, who were going to be heading out into the country-side and the wild grasslands of Mongolia. So with the Kiwi guy who organised the trip we set off for seventeen days of roughing it.

The general idea was to drive around and see some sights, with 5 days on horse back in there and visits to these huge lakes, sand dunes, hot springs and mountains. We were all pretty flexible on what to see and do. As you may have guessed it was the horse riding I was really up for most. Like in china the horses are pretty small, but strong as and they certainly like to run!!

Riding here was just the best. All the people living out here are nomadic. They just herd their animals and live in these small round houses called Gurts (Yurts). Because of this there are no fences and the grasslands just seem to go on for ever. Over each hill there they are again stretching out before you. And the best bit is these nomads are pretty hospitable. You just rock up on your horse in the afternoon and they serve you up some tea, these milk biscuit things and other assorted, albeit foul tasting, snacks (definitely an acquired taste).

Then after a days horse riding you land yourself near another Gurt and get a free bed for the night. Or exchange some candles and fags for your stay. It was great. We also camped out a lot too as there wasn't always a Gurt around when you needed one.

All I can say is that it is well recommended. John, the Kiwi guy, actually organises horse trekking tours in Mongolia so he knew all the places to go. At one of these huge lakes I went for my very first fishing trip, ever. And even managed to land myself a pretty big mutha of a fish. Although once out of the water, and no matter how many times I hit him over the head with a rock, he just didn't seem to want to die. I think he only stopped moving and twitching once we actually ate him!!! Sorry to all you Veggies out there!

Sarah, the English girl, was even brave enough to go out for a swim in one of these lakes. This water was freezing as far as I could tell. No way I was getting down to my trunks and taking a dip. It was even nice spending some time with a fellow English person which doesn't happen too often.

One slight thing was that all over these grasslands live these little rodents which burrow everywhere. Great for all the hawks and other birds of prey we saw, but not so hot for a speeding horse. I was cantering along as fast as I could without flat out galloping and my horse puts his foot down one of these little buggers' holes.

So, my horse falls forwards, I go straight over the handle bars, next thing I know I'm on the floor looking up at my horse doing a rather good judo break fall right in my direction. Luckily he just brushed over my leg so the only injury was a sprained or lightly twisted wrist. Made me realise that I should have renewed my travel insurance!! Still I was straight back on my horse who seemed 100% a-ok.

We even bumped onto one family out in the middle of nowhere who were packing up their Gurt to move somewhere else by Camel. So we all wangled a bit of a camel ride too. It just felt quite cool because it wasn't some planned ride. Just one of these nomadic families on the move.

So after a great trip I got back to UB and got Jaaga to take us to some very strange Mongolian bar. You can see the Russian influence here 'cause these guys love their vodka. But I wanted one more horse trip so headed out with John for 3 more days of horse riding. We actually went with 3 Israeli girls who pretty much restored my faith in backpacking Israelis, I never thought that would be possible!!!

But after a month here it's now time to get back home. I finally booked my ticket so I will be back in Blighty in a few days. See many of you soon!!